Gangoji-Temple Breezes over Japan’s Oldest Tiled Roof

Even on a hot summer day, a cool breeze flows through the Gokurakubo Hall of Gango-ji Temple. Every time I visit, I want to sit here and meditate to feel as if I am transported back to the Tenpyo era. The dimly lit hall, with its black-glossed pillars, ceiling, and floorboards, brings a sense of peace. In contrast, the bright blue sky, white sand, and green shade outside create a vivid scene, making time feel like it stands still.

Gango-ji Temple is located deep within Naramachi, a popular tourist area. Finding the entrance can be a bit tricky due to the narrow and winding streets. It takes about a 15-minute walk from Kintetsu Nara Station, and the area is dotted with small, old shops, making it a delightful place to explore.

法輪館の入り口からの極楽坊

Access

From Kintetsu Nara Station, walk straight through Higashimuki Shopping Street until you reach Naramachi Oodori Street. Turn left towards Wakakusayama, and you will see a sign for Gango-ji Temple across the street. Entering Naramachi from there, you will find the temple easily. From JR Nara Station, it takes about 20 minutes on foot, heading straight east along Naramachi Oodori Street.

History

Gango-ji Temple originated as Asukadera (or Hoko-ji), built in the 6th century by Soga no Umako, a leader of a ruling clan in Asuka. It was Japan’s first Buddhist temple, built with the help of many monks, scholars, and craftsmen from Baekje (Kudara) and other countries. The temple played a significant role in the cultural exchange between continental and Japanese cultures. When the capital moved to Heijokyo in 718, Gango-ji was relocated there, leaving part of Asukadera behind. During the Nara period, the temple complex was vast, covering the area of present-day Naramachi. It fell into decline when the capital moved to Heiankyo in Kyoto (in 794), and around the time of the Meiji Restoration(mid 19th century), but was gradually restored to its current state by the efforts of the chief priest Tsujimura Taien from 1943 onwards.

境内には多くの石塔、石仏があり仏足を象徴している

Temple Ground

Upon entering, you will see the National Treasure Gokurakubo (Main Hall) directly in front of you. The hall, set against the backdrop of a clear sky and white gravel, retains its original Tenpyo-era appearance. Uniquely, five pillars stand at the front of the hall, seemingly blocking the entrance. The roof tiles of Gokurakubo and the Zen Hall behind it are the oldest in Japan, dating back to the temple’s founding. Observing these tiles feels like traveling back 1400 years.

Inside Gokurakubo, the central altar area is surrounded by wooden flooring, with tatami mats around it, allowing for circumambulation by monks chanting sutras. The hall is cool and dark, with a strikingly bright view outside. Stepping out onto the surrounding veranda offers a close view of the Tenpyo-era tiled roof. The Zen Hall, also a National Treasure, can only be viewed from the outside, with its slightly brownish ancient tiles being a highlight. Some of the materials used in the Zen Hall date back to the mid-6th century, possibly making it older than Horyu-ji Temple.

Opposite Gokurakubo and the Zen Hall, across the stone Buddha group and numerous five-storied pagodas, is the Horinkan, which houses the National Treasure Five-storied Small Pagoda, commissioned by Empress Komyo. This detailed replica is displayed indoors for viewing. Another Five-storied Small Pagoda can be found at Kairyuo-ji Temple, which also has deep connections with Empress Komyo.

Gango-ji Temple is a serene and historical site, offering a unique glimpse into Japan’s ancient Buddhist culture and architecture, making it a must-visit for tourists in Nara.

獅子国型仏足石とその前に供えられた花 五輪塔が並べられ大きな浮図田(仏足)を形作る

Buddha

木造彫眼 阿弥陀如来像(重要文化財) 平安時代

Other Treasures

東門 (重要文化財)

極楽坊 (国宝)

禅堂  (国宝)

五重小塔(国宝)

寄木造玉眼 聖徳太子立像(重要文化財)

木造玉眼(重要文化財)

Flowers

春:桜、つつじ

夏:芙蓉、桔梗、蓮

秋:彼岸花、萩

Events

2月3日 節分

5月8日 灌仏会(花まつり)

8月20日過ぎ 地蔵会(燈明)

Bio

Chrononaut M

慶應義塾大学文学部史学科卒、コロンビア大学ティーチャーズカレッジ英語教授法(TESOL) 修士。Q-Leap株式会社 取締役
2024年に東京から奈良に転居。

外資2社に計10年ほど勤務。その間Chicago、NY、Geneveに計4年駐在。結婚と子育てで一旦仕事を離れ、10年間の専業主婦時代を過ごす。3人の子育て中に再度社会に戻るために本格的に英語をやり直し、2011年にコロンビア大学ティーチャーズカレッジでTESOLを取得、

2014年にビジネス英語研修会社 Q-Leap を愛場吉子と共同設立。企業のエクゼクティブ担当として数多くのプライベートレッスンを現在も手がけている。Q-Leapは今年設立10年を迎えた。「明日の日本代表に真の英語力を!」がスローガン。

コロナ禍にほぼ全てのレッスンがリモートで可能になり、残りの人生は好きなところに住んで好きな仕事をすることに。2024年夏に奈良に転居し、自分の記録として、また多くの人に奈良の魅力を知ってもらいたくChrononaut Naraを立ち上げる。

現在は奈良と東京の2拠点で活動中。奈良8割、東京2割。
推しは、藤原不比等と聖武天皇と早良親王。。。書いているときりがない。